Unfortunately they have removed their realistically priced Locost chassis plans from sale due to the high cost of public liability and professional indemnity. It seems that 3 years ago Vodou freely published as set of plans, for a Miata based build, however it looks like they are not around anymore. There are plans circulating around for several different sized frames. This can be confusing. “Book” frame refers to the frame in Ron Champion’s.

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As an example, a Lotus Seven has a torsional stiffness of around 1, Nm per degree. I liked the chassis in bare white plastic, but I thought it would look even better in Humbrol’s Polished Steel.


Most car chassis are ‘space frames’ which are usually two truss sides connected with a collection of of transverse tubes. The images below show pland level of detail provided in the drawing files. The drawings show planns dimensions based on an automatic conversion from standard to metric.

I might try splitting it into smaller files Bill. I built the lower side of the frame on the drawing of page 47, scanned, scaled to 1 to 10, and then printed. It seems the dimensions of the rear section are not correct.

Next were the skins, and I started with those at the bottom of the passenger compartment. This can also be accomplished at home with little effort.

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Scratchbuilt 1/10 scale Locost chassis

Ever since doing a design exercise involving a truss-frame aircraft fuselage, I have a deep interest in frame structures. To get a taste of classic tubular chassis design, I decided to build a Locost chassis in plastic, using the Ron Champion book.

Users browsing this forum: Would you like to know when this website changes? I estimate that I spent some 20 hours on it. I don’t know the story here.

The remainder is to be built from 1. Fri Dec 01, 1: I followed the book’s building sequence to the letter, and at this point of construction I ran into problems. Therefore the buffing did not go easy, and especially on the delicate 0. On the other hand, the buffed paint looked really nice, blotchy in appearance with shiny edges, just like steel before it rusts. After having some doubts, I decided to add the suspension attachment brackets.

The plans are not complete, but they should provide you with a very good and very accurate starting point. Making 17 of them was a tedious job, no fun at all.

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And I found out that the instructions p,ans the longitudinal position of the front suspension brackets is completely missing in the book, which must play havoc with the castor angles of the real thing – unbelievable! Then problem solved for others in the future too. I’m especially fascinated with three-dimensional truss structures for car chassis design, which so far I haven’t found a real example of.


The suspension brackets can be mounted according to the layout provided by the book, but the length of the front wishbones should locist customized to be sure the track width agrees with the donor axle following assembly.

Donor is stripped, and i am about to cut steel. As they were freely available for private use, I would expect there is no issue sharing a copy? The reality was that the process is far from simple and there are many decisions to be made along the way and problems to overcome. Pocost McSorley Sevenesque site with drawings of various versions.

First up I built a solid timber table with steel legs to provide the level surface required for the space-frame construction, which also gave me a chance to practice my cutting and welding skills before launching into the serious construction stuff.

If you think it’s contrary to the wishes of the folks that made the plans than don’t bother, obviously. Does anyone still have a set of these they would be willing to email to me? Build time so far was in the order of 12 hours.

I later enlarged the holes in all brackets, to make them look more realistic.